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A Pretty Finger-Purse
Instructions rewritten by Sandi Marshall in today's crochet terminology
Pattern was published in Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2,
published 1915 by Needlecraft Publishing Co., Maine

The original directions as written in 1915 are on:
http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa040399.htm

Front Piece of the Purse:

Make a chain of 5 stitches and join to form a ring.
1. Chain 3, 1 double crochet in ring, chain 1. *2 double crochet in ring, chain 1; repeat from * 4 times, making 6 groups of double crochet and join last chain 1 to top of 1st chain-3.
2. Chain 1, single crochet between posts of first 2 double crochet, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space; * single crochet between next 2 double crochet posts, make 6 double crochet in chain-1 space ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round.
3. Slip stitch in first double crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ; * skip single crochet, skip first double crochet of next 6 double crochet group, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, chain 4 ** repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in first single crochet of this round.
4. Chain 6, * 7 double crochet in chain-4 space, chain 3; repeat from * around, ending with 6 double crochet in last chain-4 space, join with a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the first chain-6. For a photo showing a close look at the repeats of rounds 1 - 4, see http://crochet.about.com/od/vintage/ss/purse1915.htm
5. Chain 1, * 4 single crochet in chain-3 space, double crochet in next 3 double crochet, (double crochet, ch 2, double crochet) in next double crochet, double crochet in next 3 double crochet ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in 1st sc.
6. Chain 3 (counts as 1st double crochet), double crochet in each of next 3 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, single crochet in next 4 single crochet, single crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 single crochet, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** around, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain 3 of this round.
7. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, chain 2, skip 2 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, single crochet in each of next 20 single crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, * chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet **, repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, then chain 2, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3 of this round.

On this last round, I noticed that the piece was starting to curl. (In vintage patterns, they didn't add extra stitches to compensate for going around a wider curve as the circle grew in size. Instead they loosened their tension so the loops at the tops of the stitches were longer to compensate for the curve.) In the sample, I tried to keep it authentic to the way it would have been crocheted in 1915 so loosened my tension on the last round. You might, however, prefer to add the extra stitches needed to keep the piece from curling. An extra stitch after about every 4 stitches should do it. Adjust this yourself as needed, according to your own crochet tension.

8. Chain 3, double crochet in each of next 4 double crochet, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, single crochet in each of next 22 single crochet across the top, 4 single crochet in chain-2 space, * double crochet in each of next 7 double crochet, 3 double crochet in chain-2 space ** ; repeat the directions between * and ** 6 more times, double crochet in each of next 2 double crochet, double crochet in same place as beginning chain-3, join with slip stitch in beginning chain-3 of this round.

Fasten off neatly. This forms the front part of the purse.
The 1917 directions indicated that:
The back is made in the same way up to the 6th round; in the 6th, 7th and 8th rounds the single crochets across the top are omitted, the entire round being made according to latter part of directions, working all around.

In the 1915 pattern, the differences for rounds 6, 7 and 8 were not written out for crocheting the back piece. In the year 1915, crocheters were expected to figure the differences for these rounds out for themselves.
This is how I did the 6th round for the back: ch 3, dc in ea of next 3 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp, * dc in ea of next 4 dc, dc in ea of next 4 sc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, 4 dc in ch-2 sp **, repeat the directions between * and ** 4 more times, then dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in the top of the beginning ch-3 of this round.

This is how I did the 7th round for the back: I opted to make this round in solid double crochet, rather than a round with open areas, as in the round 7 directions for the front piece. Make your round 7 whichever way you think you will like the best. If you wish to make it in solid double crochet, here are my directions for the round, with the increases that I used (this is just a guideline; adjust increases, if needed, for your own crochet tension, so the piece will not buckle): ch 3, dc in ea of next 9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 15, 2 dc in next dc, dc in ea of next 14 dc, 2 dc in ea of next 2 dc, dc in ea of next 4 dc, sl st in top of the beginning ch-3 of this round.

I also did the 8th round for the back in solid double crochet, with an increase or two on each rounded point, to keep the points from buckling. An increase is done by making 2 double crochet all in one same stitch.

For the flap, two more rows are worked across one side of the second part or back, as follows:
1. Make a single crochet in center of the group of double crochet in chain-2 space, double crochet in each of next 3 double crochet, (chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 6 double crochet) twice, chain 2, skip 1, double crochet in next 3 double crochet and a single crochet in next, slip stitch in next; fasten off.
2. Attach thread in stitch before the first single crochet of last row. Make a single crochet in single crochet of last row, double crochet in each double crochet with 3 double crochet in chain-2 space and end with single crochet in single crochet, slip stitch in next stitch; fasten off neatly and securely. It is a good plan in fastening off a piece of work to not only draw the thread, after breaking, through the stitch, but to thread a sewing-needle with the end and make one or two close buttonhole-stitches to hold.

When both parts are completed hold them together so that the last single crochet across the top of first part and the single crochet at end of 10th row of second part "match"; then fasten in the thread through both single crochet at the same time, * chain 3, skip 2 double crochet, 1 single crochet in next, drawing thread always through both parts at once; repeat around to other side of the top and continue around the flap in the same way.

Finish with an edge of 3 single crochet in chain-3 space, chain 3 for a picot, 3 single crochet in same chain-3 space.

Fill a ring three-fourths of an inch in diameter with single crochet, chain 40, fasten in single crochet at one side of top of first part, running the chain through the flap so that the latter will fold down over the first part and lie flat, chain 3, fasten in 3rd or 4th single crochet of top, chain 39, run through flap and fasten in next single crochet of ring, and repeat until you have made 9 chains, making 38 stitches in 3rd, 37 in 4th, 36 in 5th, then 37 in 5th, and increase to 40 stitches in 9th, which should fasten in last single crochet at other side of top. Line the purse or not, as desired.

Lots of work went into rewriting this pattern. Please be kind and give the URL of this page to anyone who wants a copy of the pattern, instead of distributing reproduced copies of the pattern in any other way. Thank you. I appreciate it.

URL is http://crochet.about.com/library/bl1915coinpurse.htm

A Pretty Finger-Purse Instructions rewritten by Sandi Marshall in today's crochet terminology
Rewritten instructions copyright 1999 by Sandi Marshall. Free for your own personal use only. Do not redistribute, in any form. Instead, please give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the pattern. Thank you!
The original version of the pattern was published in Handbook of Needlecraft Number 2,
published 1915 by Needlecraft Publishing Co., Maine (copyright expired). Because it was before the year 1923, the original version of the pattern is now in the public domain.

How long does copyright last? See US Government Copyright Office web site at http://www.loc.gov/copyright. Under "Publications" heading, click on "Information Circulars": Circular 15 (Renewal of Copyrights), Circular 15a (Duration of Copyrights) and Circular 15t (Extension of Copyright Terms) will be helpful.

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