Filet Crochet Birds Sweater, 1920
by Twenties Designer, Adeline Cordet
Free Charts with Added Directions by Sandi Marshall
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| So you can see the difference in the way directions (and
lack of directions) were written in 1920, I've included the original
instructions within the box (same color as this one) towards the end
of this page, the way the instructions appeared in the 1920 pattern book.
Crocheters of that era were often expected to "just know" what to do from
a photo of the item, with limited explanation.
On the left, I've tried to write out every detail of everything I could think of, that you would need to know how to do in order to complete this "Roaring Twenties" sweater. I hope I have made it easier for you to make this lovely top for your own wardrobe.
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Sandi's Directions
[1920 Photo of Completed Sweater]
Materials - 8 balls Perle Cotton
Sweater is worked in one piece, starting at the back, adding chains for sleeves at armhole point, continuing to the front, dividing for neckline and working birds from chart last at bottom front.
These written directions are for a 4 dc mesh. To make this in a smaller size, work the charts in a 3 dc mesh or make it with a thinner size thread. This page explains 4 dc mesh versus 3 dc mesh.
Note: You will turn, chain 3 at end of every row (counts as first dc of next row).
Begin with border rows of Sweater Back:
(same patterning as first 5 rows of collar chart)
1st Row - Chain 170, double crochet in 3rd chain
from hook, 1 double crochet in each chain across.
2nd Row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), * chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in
next dc *, repeat * to * across (open meshes), until four stitches
remain; dc in last 4 dc (solid mesh).
3rd Row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), * chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in
each of next 4 dc *, repeat * to * across.
4th Row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc;
* chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc *, repeat * to * across
until 9 stitches remain; chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc;
chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc.
5th Row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc;
chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc,
chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc;
* chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc *,
repeat * to * across until 18 stitches remain; (chain 2, skip 2 dc,
dc in next dc; chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc) twice.
6th row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc, (chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in
each of next 4 dc) twice, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc * across
until 15 stitches remain, dc in next 3 dc, (chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in
each of next 4 dc) twice.
7th row - Skip end stitch (ch-3 counts as 1st dc), dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc;
chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 4 dc, * ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in
next dc * across until 12 stitches remain; dc in each of next 3 dc,
chain 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc; chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in each
of next 4 dc.
Repeat rows 6 and 7 consecutively for 35 rows (give or take
on this number of rows,
depending on the length you want your finished sweater to be).
Measure to decide on length: what you have so far is from the bottom
of the sweater back to the bottom of the sleeve opening.
This is the point where you will begin the sleeves.
Add on for sleeves:
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Note that while you are following directions for working rows all the way
across (which now
include the sleeves), you may also choose to do (at the same time) the
following increases to make the sleeves flare.
Flare on Sleeve
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Add a chain of 135 stitches on each side for sleeves. One way to do this is by chaining 135 at end of a row; dc in 4th chain from hook (counts as first dc), dc in each of next 3 dc (solid block made); continue with (ch 2, skip 2 chain, dc in next chain) for open mesh across row. At end of row, chain 135 for second sleeve and repeat, same as for first sleeve. Work to the end of the chain 135, then slip stitch in last dc of row just worked. End off. If you are working the border pattern at end of the sleeves you'll need to establish that border pattern on this first sleeve row.
Reattach thread at one sleeve end.
Now working each row across sleeve, across back, then across other
sleeve:
Work 23 rows even in open mesh (with a solid mesh at beginning and
end of each row, as established).
Dividing to form neckline: Work 64 mesh, turn, (leaving rest
of row unworked), work 2 rows in open mesh over these 64 mesh (with a
solid mesh at sleeve end of each row).
This is the point where you will begin to shape the neckline (working on one sleeve and on one side of the front at a time, at this point). Increase 1 mesh on neckline edge, then (increase 1 mesh on neckline edge every 4th row) 3 times, (increase 1 mesh on neckline edge every 6th row) twice.
Make other side of front the same way. You should have 13 mesh left unworked in center of back piece for neck opening.
Sleeves Completed:
On next row leave 43 mesh unworked on each side of front (sleeves ended).
Rejoining front pieces: On this next open mesh row, start with a solid
mesh over first 4 stitches (chain-3 counts as first dc), then work to end of
first piece until last dc remains. To join the end double crochet stitch
from each side into one stitch: yarn over, draw up a loop in last dc of
first side, draw thread through two loops on hook, yarn over, draw up a loop
in end dc of second front piece, draw thread through two loops on hook,
yarn over, draw thread through all loops on hook (this is the same as making
a double crochet decrease).
Continue across second piece: Work open mesh across to last 4
stitches; dc in each of last 4 dc (solid mesh).
Continue with open mesh rows: Working evenly (without increases or
decreases), continue working open mesh rows (with one solid mesh at each edge)
until 33 rows remain on the
front (count rows from bottom of sweater to beginning of sleeves on
sweater back and use that as a guideline for crocheting same number of rows
below sleeves on sweater front).
When 33 rows remain on front: Begin to follow Sweater Front Chart.
You will be working the birds (or your own substitute chart) upside down. To
make it easier, I've flipped the chart below. (Right-side-up chart is
near the end of this page.) Begin at bottom of this chart:
Sweater Front Chart:
After working all rows on the chart, work one row open mesh (with one solid mesh at each end), then work border rows over next 5 rows, as on back. Last row is solid mesh all the way across row.
End off. Weave in ends.
Collar Chart
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This chart shows the collar turned sideways, because it's the easiest way to work the collar pattern. However, the mesh side of the collar piece (top of this chart) is the part that's sewn to the neckline on the front piece of the sweater. |
Collar -- Chain 107.
Row 1 - (first row at bottom of collar chart) double
crochet in 3rd chain from hook, 1 double crochet in each chain across.
Rows 2 - 23 - Continue to follow chart, working from bottom
up on chart.
When collar back is completed, end off.
Second Collar Piece - Work same as first collar piece rows 1 - 23 (once through the collar chart).
Matching evenly the meshes of both pieces, sew open mesh side of collar to neckline on one side of sweater front. Repeat with other collar on other side of neckline on sweater front.
Sew together (or crochet together with slip stitch) along length of sleeves; also join front and back of sweater at sides. Sew sides together all the way to bottom of sweater or leave last 6 or 7 inches unjoined, if desired.
Belt -- Chain 26.
Row 1 Dc in 3rd chain from hook, dc in
each of next 3 dc (one solid mesh made), * chain 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in
next dc *, repeat * to * across (open meshes), until four stitches
remain; dc in last 4 dc (solid mesh). (Row should have 1 solid mesh,
6 open mesh, 1 solid mesh)
Remaining Rows Work 168 rows, each with 1 solid mesh,
6 open mesh, 1 solid mesh.
Gather ends. 1920 instructions call for finishing the belt with
a ball trimming on the ends, as shown in the picture.
This would have been a small crocheted ball, sometimes worked around
a wooden mould in those days. If you'd like to recreate (almost)
authentically, you
could stuff a small crocheted ball with fiberfill for each belt end. Other
options are to attach a pretty bead to each belt end or just leave them
plain.
Chart for Sweater Front as it appeared in 1920 book:
On these charts:
white blocks = open mesh (spaces)
black blocks = solid mesh (blocks)
These are the directions I used to figure out all the added instruction that I wrote above:
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as written in 1920 |
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Material-8 balls Perle Cotton.
1st Row-Ch. 170, sk. 2 ch., 1 d. c. in each st. Turn, ch. 3 at end of every row. 2nd Row-Sk. 1 st., make 3 sts., * ch. 2, sk. 2, 1 st. in next st. * 1 s. m. Work border as in collar diagram, then 35 rows of o. m. Add a ch. of 135 sts. on each side for sleeves. Work 23 rows even. Work 64 m., turn, 2 rows even. Increase 1 m., then increase every 4th row, 3 times, every 6th row twice. Make other side the same, leaving 13 m. for back of neck. On next row leave off 43 m. for sleeves. Make front same as back. Flare on Sleeve-13 m., increase by making 2 m. over 1 m., 2 m., increase 2 m., plain to end of row. Repeat in 4th and 7th rows. 6 rows plain - border same as collar diagram. Collar--Ch. 107-1st row, s. m. Work as diagram for 23 rows, then border, 8 m. for 23 rows, border fastened off. Make other side same, leaving 13 m. for back of neck. Belt--Ch. 26, 1 s. m., 6 o. m., 1 s. m. Work 168 rows, gather ends and finish with ball trimming as shown. |
To brush up on your basics in filet crochet, go here: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa050298.htm
The 1920 directions called for increasing by working two mesh within one mesh or you can do the increasing the modern way. This page tells how to do increasing in filet crochet, today's way: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa050998.htm
This Birds Filet Sweater Pattern is from Ripple Sweaters, Yokes and Edgings, Book No. 13 by Adeline Cordet, published by Valley Supply Co. in 1920.
My HTML arrangement of this Birds Filet Sweater Pattern and my added instructions copyright © 2000 Sandi Marshall. Do not copy onto any other website and do not distribute copies in any other way. Instead, please give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the pattern. Thank you.
URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/blbirdfiletsweater.htm
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Photo of this sweater found at http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa011500.htm
