Leaping Deer Design Mesh Bag Filet Crochet Free Pattern

Pattern Directions by Sandi Marshall

Printing: If only the ad at the top of the page prints, try this: before choosing the Print command, click on the pattern portion of the page (tells your printer what part of the page you want to print), then choose Print. Use Print Preview (click on File, then Print Preview at the top of your Internet browser) if you want to see ahead of time what will print.

I started with a small antique filet crochet chart, which had no written directions. I wrote the filet crochet directions for that chart to be made into a square, then dreamed up this mesh bag as one way that the deer square could be made into another item. This bag can be useful for storing or carrying anything that's large enough to not fall through the little holes in the bag.

Materials Used In The Example: About 6 oz. worsted weight yarn (I used Caron Simply Soft, color 9703 Bone), US size H hook
The piece could be crocheted with any size of thread or any weight of yarn, using a size of hook that would correspond with the material being used.
Finished Size: About 13 inches wide x 14 inches tall (when made with worsted weight yarn)
Gauge: 4 dc rows = 2 inches, 8 dc = 2 inches
Note that gauge is not crucial to this project, unless, for some reason, you want the bag to be exactly the same size as the example given.
Abbreviations: ch = chain, dc = double crochet, ea = each, sp = space

Pattern Directions, by Sandi Marshall:
Starting Chain and Rows 1 - 22: Follow the directions for the deer square that can be printed from this page: http://crochet.about.com/library/n051907.htm
Rows 23 - 29: Repeat row 21.
Partial Round 30: (goes along 3 sides of the piece). ch 1, then working down the side of the bag, work 2 sc around the post of the dc on the edge of each row until you reach the last open mesh on that side, work 4 sc in that mesh for the corner, then working along the bottom edge, (sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp) 20 times, work 4 sc in next open mesh for next corner, then working along the next side, work 2 sc around the post of the dc on the edge of each row until you reach the end of this side, sl st in top of last dc post. Leave top unworked.
Partial Round 31: Ch 1, turn. sc in ea sc along the side, 2 sc in corner sc, sc in ea sc along the bottom, 2 sc in corner, sc in ea sc along the next side.
Partial Rounds 32 and 33: Repeat Partial Round 31.
End off. Weave in ends.

Back Piece Starting Chain: chain 49.
Row 1: dc in 7th ch from hook, (ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch) 21 times.
Row 2: ch 4 to turn, skip first ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, (ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc) 20 times, ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch.
Rows 3 - 33: Repeat row 2.
Partial Round 34: (goes along 3 sides of the piece). ch 1, then working down the side of the bag, work 2 sc around the post of the dc on the edge of each row until you reach the last open mesh on that side, work 4 sc in that mesh for the corner, then working along the bottom edge, (sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp) 20 times, work 4 sc in next open mesh for next corner, then working along the next side, work 2 sc around the post of the dc on the edge of each row until you reach the end of this side, sl st in top of last dc post. Leave top unworked.
Partial Round 35: Ch 1, turn. sc in ea sc along the side, 2 sc in corner sc, sc in ea sc along the bottom, 2 sc in corner, sc in ea sc along the next side.
Partial Rounds 36 and 37: Repeat Partial Round 31.
Round 38: Ch 100 for strap, then (being careful not to twist the chain just made), sc in first sc of partial round 27, on the side opposite where the strap chain began. sc in ea sc along the side, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the bottom, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the next side.
Round 39: Working along the strap chain, sc in one loop of ea of the 100 chains of the strap, then working along the sides of the bag again: sc in ea sc along the side, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the bottom, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the next side.
Round 40: Working along the strap, sc in ea sc of the strap, then working along the sides of the bag again: sc in ea sc along the side, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the bottom, 2 sc in ea of the two sc closest to the corner, sc in ea sc along the next side.
Rounds 41 and 42: Repeat Round 40. Do not end off at the end of round 42.
Joining The Two Pieces: Hold the two pieces with the right sides together, lining up the bottom edges and the sides. Beginning at the last sc that you made in round 42, sl st through both thicknesses, drawing the yarn through the single crochet of the front piece and the single crochet that lines up with it on the back piece, at the same time, repeating this all the way around the three sides, to join the edges. Note: When you are joining the bottom edge, one piece is wider than the other, so you will need to compensate by sometimes inserting the hook through the next stitch on the wider piece but then (instead of inserting the hook through the next stitch on the narrower piece) insert the hook back through the last stitch worked on the narrower piece, then yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through all loops to complete as a slip stitch. About 10 of these decrease slip stitches are needed across the bottom (space them out evenly, with regular slip stitch joins between the decrease slip stitch joins).
End off. Weave in ends. Turn bag right side out.
Drawstring: Chain about 140 chains or so. End off. Weave the ends into the last chains on each end. Tie a knot on each end, to secure that end. Beginning at the center front, weave the drawstring through the open mesh of the top row of the front, around the back and back through the other side of the front.

Pattern directions written by Sandi Marshall, copyright 2007 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Pattern photo copyright 2007 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Free for your own personal (not-for-profit, non-commercial) use only. If others would like to have the pattern directions, please give them the URL for this pattern, so that they may come here for themselves. Thank you. I appreciate it. Copyright Myths Explained - www.templetons.com/brad/copymyths.html ... U.S. Government Copyright Office - http://www.loc.gov/copyright ... Copyright Law Awareness: Patterns that a designer chooses to place on the Internet as free patterns are protected by the same copyright laws as patterns that are purchased. It is illegal to sell or even give away for free reproduced copies of any copyrighted pattern without the written permission of the copyright-holder. Pattern piracy on the Internet has been damaging to designers and publishers. Please consider helping in the effort for copyright law awareness to help stop Internet pattern piracy so that there will be a future of new designs in craft patterns.
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