Openwork Lace Insertion

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This pretty lace insertion would be wonderful added to a summer garment. Some other ideas would be to sew it to guest towels or pillowcases. How about adding it across the flap or body of a crocheted purse?

There are two ways to add it:

Method 1. Sew it directly over fabric or another background, with the colored background showing through the crocheted lace. This type of lace is usually sewn on a number of inches away from the edge (you decide how many inches will look right on the item that you're adding the lace to). It's a good idea to pin the lace in place before sewing it down (by hand or sewing machine). I like to measure from the edge up to the lace, all the way across, as I pin it, to be sure that I'm keeping it even.

Method 2. Cut the fabric at the point where you want to add the lace (it's a good idea to measure and pin, before cutting, so you can keep the cut even, all the way across). Hem the cut edges of the fabric, then sew the crocheted lace in between, so that you will have the fabric on both sides of the lace. Adding the lace is going to add length to the garment, so if you want the garment to be the same length as before, you'll need to cut that extra amount off one of the garment edges (cut it off the larger piece), keeping in mind the length of fabric that was folded under when hemming. To decide how much to cut off, measure the width of your lace, then subtract the length used in folding for the hem on both edges. The number you come up with is the amount of length to cut off (if you want the garment to end up the same length as it originally was. If you don't mind if it's longer, then you don't need to cut any extra off the garment). When sewing the lace on, stitch very close to the edge of the lace (stitching directly over the outermost crocheted row, is best).

Method 2 (with no background behind the lace) works very well with summer tops or summer skirts, even sleeves.

Another Thought: A teenage girl might be thrilled to have crocheted lace glued to her favorite notebook or maybe even her backpack.

To make this lace insertion, I crocheted continuous repeats of the Antique "Spider" Lace Design.

Instructions by Sandi Marshall, Based On An Antique Design:

Note: The chain lengths in the center may seem confusing, at first, because they may seem to "not look right" but these chain lengths are supposed to be left alone until row 7, where it all comes together. Refer to the photo below the row 6 directions for a visual on how the center portion of the first rows should look.

A Visual For Gathering Up The Chain Lengths: Extra Photos To Help In Crocheting Spider Lace - Photos that show how to crochet parts of the spider lace and blocks design (a variation that I made of the Antique Spider Lace Design), which I used in crocheting a shawl wrap and a scarf pattern on this site. The chain lengths are gathered up in the same way on those patterns as they are in this Openwork Lace Insertion pattern. There are step-by-step close-up photos, showing how to gather up the chain lengths in the center of the spider lace design, on: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa021206.htm

Materials - I crocheted my sample in size 30 crochet cotton thread, using a size 10 steel hook. With these materials, the lace is 1 3/4 inches wide. You may wish to use size 20 or size 10 (bedspread weight) thread with about a size 8 steel hook, instead, which will result in a wider lace.
Abbreviations:
ch = chain, dc = double crochet, sl st = slip stitch
Directions
Foundation Chain: Chain 32.
Row 1: Dc in 8th ch from hook (first open mesh made), * ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next ch; repeat from * . (9 open mesh in this row)
Row 2: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 7 times; ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain. (9 open mesh)
Row 3: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times; 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times; ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain. (4 open mesh, 1 solid mesh, 4 open mesh)
Row 4: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 2 times; 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, chain 7, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 2 times; ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain. (3 open mesh, 1 solid mesh, chain 7, 1 solid mesh, 3 open mesh)
Row 5: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, chain 8, skip 3 dc, skip the ch-7, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, chain 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain. (2 open mesh, 1 solid mesh, chain 8, 1 solid mesh, 2 open mesh)
Row 6: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, chain 12, skip 3 dc, skip the ch-8, skip 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain.

This is how the center portion will look after row 6
(the center chain lengths will be gathered up in row 7):

Row 7: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 chains, ch 6; make a long slip stitch, as follows: insert hook below the ch-7 of row 3, yarn over hook, draw yarn through to front and pull a long loop to above the ch-12 of row 5, yarn over, draw yarn through both loops on hook (slip stitch made that goes around the center chain lengths of 3 rows), ch 6, 1 dc in each of the last 3 chains of the ch-12, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain.
Row 8: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 chains, ch 2, skip 3 chains, skip sl st, skip 3 chains, 1 dc in each of last 3 chains of ch-6, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain.
Row 9: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 2 times, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch-2 space, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 2 times, ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain.
Row 10: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times, ch 2, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 3 times, ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain.
Row 11: ch 5, skip ch-2, dc in next dc, (ch 2, dc in next dc) 7 times; ch 2, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain. (9 open mesh)
Repeat these 11 pattern rows, as many times as you need to, for the length of lace insertion that you want.
Finishing Row: When you have the length you want, crochet a round of single crochet around the outside edge. I found that 2 sc in the side of each open mesh worked well for me, with (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner and across the top and bottom working an sc in each dc, with 2 sc in each chain-2 space. Your crochet tension may be different than mine and you may wish to crochet your outside round differently, to keep the edge flat. Use your own judgement.
End off. Weave in ends.

Copyright: My sewing suggestions and the instructions for this Pattern copyright 2002 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Pattern images copyright 2002 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc.

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