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Fuchsia Flower Wide Edging Free Pattern

Pattern Adapted by Sandi Marshall, From An Antique Design

A few ideas for its uses would be as a pretty addition to a guest towel (when made with cotton yarn) or as a thread crochet edging added to purchased kitchen curtains. Or add it to both the front and back bottom edges of a short summer crop top (when made with sport weight cotton yarn and a size F hook, just make two of this pattern, which will fit around up to about a misses size 12 - once through the pattern is about 16 1/2" in length; make with worsted weight yarn and a size G or H hook, to fit around larger sizes).

I changed the way the flower portion is made and rewrote the rest of the antique directions for this pattern, so that it would be in today's crochet pattern terms and be easier to follow.

Rewritten Directions by Sandi Marshall - -

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
chs = chains
dc = double crochet
dtr = double treble
ea = each
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st = stitch
sts = stitches

Double Treble (dtr) = Yarn around the hook 3 times, then insert hook into next stitch. Yarn over hook and draw yarn through stitch - five loops on the hook.
Loop yarn over hook and draw through two loops, (there are now four loops remaining on the hook), *yarn over hook and draw through two loops**, repeat * to ** twice more. This completes one double treble crochet. Note: In this pattern, the double treble is used in making a cluster, so you will be leaving the last loop of each double treble on the hook, until you have three double trebles made and four loops on the hook, the you will be drawing the yarn or thread through all four loops on the hook at once, to draw the top of the three stitches together (which forms the point of a flower petal). If you're not familiar with making a crocheted cluster, this 4-dc Cluster How-to can help you in visualizing the basics of the way that a cluster is made.

Slip Stitch (sl st) = Insert hook in stitch, thread or yarn over hook, pull thread or yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook, at the same time. A slip stitch does not add any height and is used to join a chain or stitch to another place in the crochet piece.

Picot: There are two variations of a picot used in this pattern (the difference is that two different chain lengths are used). One is made by doing a ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made and the other is made using a ch 5, sl st in base of ch-5 just made. A picot forms a small decorative circle loop.

A mesh = chain 1, skip 1 stitch, dc in next stitch. This makes a hole in the crocheted piece, which is part of the overall design.

Method 1 If you are crocheting the edging as a separate piece, to sew on, when completed -
To Begin: If you want to make a piece the size of the sample shown in red at the top of this page, your starting chain will be 77 chains. This will make a total of 36 mesh in row 1.

Method 2 If you are crocheting the edging directly into the edge of a crocheted item or directly into the edge of fabric -
To Begin: Join yarn or thread in the edge stitch of the piece to which you are adding this edging.

Method 1, Row 1 (if you started with a chain length): Dc in 7th ch from hook, * ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch **, repeat from * to ** as many times as needed to complete the row.
or ...
Method 2, Row 1 (if you are crocheting directly into the edge of an item): Ch 4, skip 1 st, dc in next st, * ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in next st **, repeat from * to ** as many times as needed to complete the row. If you wish to make an edging the size of the sample shown in red at the top of this page, you will need a total of 36 mesh in row 1.
Row 2: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 11 more times (making a total of 13 mesh), ch 4, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip next ch-1 sp, 4 dc in next dc, ch 3, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 12 more times (making a total of 13 mesh on this side of the piece), leaving the last ch-1 sp unworked at the end of the row.
Row 3: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 8 more times (making a total of 10 mesh), ch 8, skip next mesh, skip ch-4 of previous row, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in ea of next 4 dc, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, ch 8, skip ch-4 of previous row, skip next mesh, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 9 more times (making a total of 10 mesh on this side of the piece), leaving the last ch-1 sp unworked at the end of the row.
Row 4: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 5 more times (making a total of 7 mesh), ch 8, skip next mesh, skip ch-8 of previous row, skip 4 sc, next make a cluster, as follows: work 3 double treble, all in the next dc, each time leaving the last loop of the double treble on the hook, then yarn over and pull yarn through all 4 loops on the hook, (ch 8, cluster in next dc) 3 more times, which makes 4 clusters altogether (these form the flower petals). Ch 8, skip 4 sc, skip ch-8 of previous row, skip next mesh, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 6 more times (making a total of 7 mesh on this side of the piece), leaving the last ch-1 sp unworked at the end of the row.
Row 5, on one side of the piece: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc, sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 2 more times (making a total of 4 mesh).
Row 6, on one side of the piece: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 1 more time (making a total of 3 mesh).
Row 7, on one side of the piece: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; next, make a picot, as follows: ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made, (ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made) two more times, which makes a total of 3 picot. Next, ch 3, sl st in next ch-1 sp of previous row. Do 3 sl st in the edge dc of row 6 (to reach row 5), then sl st in the top of the edge chain of row 5 (this puts you at the right spot to begin the chains across the center, so that the other side of the piece will match, when completed).
Making The Chains Across The Center: Ch 8, sl st in ch-9 of row 4, make a picot, as follows: ch 5, sl st in base of ch-5 just made, ch 12, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), (ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made) two more times, for a total of 3 picot in this spot. Ch 8, sl st in next ch-7 sp (between the flower petals), * ch 13, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), (ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made) two more times, for a total of 3 picot in this spot, ch 9, sl st in next ch-7 sp **. Repeat from * to ** once more. Ch 12, sl st in 4th ch from hook (picot made), (ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made) two more times, for a total of 3 picot in this spot. Ch 8, sl st in next ch-7 sp, ch 5, sl st in base of ch-5 just made (picot made), ch 8.
Row 5, on this other side of the piece: Skip first ch-1 sp, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 3 more times (making a total of 4 mesh).
Row 6, on this other side of the piece: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 4, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, * ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp ** , repeat from * to ** 1 more time (making a total of 3 mesh).
Row 7, on this other side of the piece: Turn, sl st in first ch-1 sp, ch 3, skip next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; next, make a picot, as follows: ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made, (ch 4, sl st in base of ch-4 just made) two more times, which makes a total of 3 picot. Next, ch 3, sl st in next ch-1 sp of previous row.
To finish: End off, leaving a strand to weave in. Weave in the ends, to secure.

Copyright: Rewritten Instructions copyright 2003 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Do not redistribute.

Photo by Sandi Marshall. This photo image is copyright 2003 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Do not redistribute.

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URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa012503.htm

I adapted this edging from a pattern that was originally published in the book Corticelli "Lessons in Crochet" Book No. 9 copyright in the year 1920 (now in the public domain).

Just FYI - If rewriting instructions to a pattern that is currently under copyright protection by another person or company, the person who rewrites the instructions can't legally claim any copyright of their own to those rewritten instructions. If a pattern (copyright before the year 1923 in the USA) has fallen into the public domain, then new copyright can be applied to variations of (also called derivitive works of) that public domain pattern. Keywords: public domain

Copyright Questions? See http://whatiscopyright.org - see the section named "Copyrights and the Internet" (it starts by saying "Public domain - not!").

How long does copyright last? See US Government Copyright Office web site at www.copyright.gov. Under "Publications" heading, click on "Information Circulars": Circular 15 (Renewal of Copyrights), Circular 15a (Duration of Copyrights) and Circular 15t (Extension of Copyright Terms).

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