This doily is made with a filet crochet center and finished with a cluster edging.
The edging is worked in an interesting manner, starting with a "chain" of
clusters made by working each new cluster in the end of cluster just made. When
you have four clusters in your chain, you then work back down the chain,
connecting (with slip stitch) at certain points to the chain just made,
after each one or two new clusters. I've put together a how-to, with photos
showing each step, to make it easier for you to learn this cluster edging
technique.
You also have your choice of filet centers. The photo above shows the
design in a 1917 pattern book. There was no chart in that book for the
center so, to make it easier for you, I charted it. That chart is shown on the left.
I also created more
charts of my own design that can be substituted for the center shown in the
original pattern. Those charts are shown below.
Materials Needed: Use thread size desired. To give you
an idea of finished size: when made with
size 10 thread, the filet center portion of the first chart (shown above) measures
about 4 1/2 inches x 8 inches (this is not counting the cluster edge).
Starting Chain Chain 10.
Begin to follow chart, starting at bottom right.
Row 1 of chart Chain 5 (counts as first dc and the ch-2 of first open mesh),
dc in 9th chain from hook (first open mesh made); (ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch) twice.
Continue to follow chart.
On these charts:
white blocks = open mesh (spaces)
black blocks = solid mesh (blocks)
Border around finished filet center: When you finish working a chart
for the doily center, do not break the thread but continue around the outside
edge in single crochet. Work number of single crochet to cover edge
without rippling (3 or 4 sc in each mesh end works well, depending on
your own crochet tension). Use your own judgement. When finished with this
single crochet round, do not break thread but start the cluster edging at this point.
Cluster Edging Text Instructions: Row 1 If you have fastened off
with the thread, then attach in any stitch on the edge of the doily.
Ch 4, then in first stitch of this chain-4,
work 2 double treble,
keeping top loop of each on the hook and working the three loops
off together, forming a cluster
(the cluster consists of a chain-4 and 2 double treble). Next, work a
chain 4 and 2 dtr in same manner in the top of the cluster just made.
Repeat this until you have 4 clusters (each cluster worked in the
top of the cluster before it). In end of the 4th cluster, make a triple picot
(1st picot made of 4 chains, 2nd picot made of 5 chains, 3rd picot made of 4
chains) fastened in the top of the cluster (see picot
explanation below). Turn.
Row 2 Make 2 clusters in same manner as before, fasten with
slip stitch between
2nd and 3rd clusters made in previous row. Make 2 more clusters, slip
stitch in end (that's attached to doily) of first cluster made in previous row.
Next work a single crochet in each of next 2, 3 or 4 single crochet of
doily edge (number needed to have a space between clusters that will keep
border flat; take care not to let it become too full). I found that I preferred
working 4 sc between cluster rows; even 5 sc could work, depending on your crochet
tension and size of thread used.
Row 3 Work 1 cluster, slip stitch between the last 2 clusters
of previous row. Work 2 more clusters, slip stitch between the next two
clusters of previous row; work 1 more cluster, make the triple picot in
the top of this cluster. Turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 around doily.
Picot = chain 4, slip stitch in base of chain 4 just made or
where directions call for picot made with a chain 5:
chain 5, slip stitch in base of chain 5 just made. Edging
calls for 3 picot made in same stitch (it will look something like a small
three-leaf clover).
The above edging can be worked around any size doily center.
Another Option You could also
crochet a base in single crochet for the length desired and then work this
cluster edging along that base for a straight edging.
This Cluster Edge Doily design was originally printed in
the book Crochet Design by M. Heminway & Sons Silk Co. in 1917
(this book is old enough to now be in the public domain).
My HTML arrangement of these instructions, my added instructions and charts
are copyright 2000 Sandi Marshall.
Please do not copy onto any other website, Internet Bulletin Board, or
distribute in any other way.
Instead, please
give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the pattern,
so that they may come here for themselves and benefit from
everything else this site has to offer. Thank you.
US Gov. Copyright Website FAQ
URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa021200.htm
2000 Sandi Marshall.
Please do not copy onto any other website, Internet Bulletin Board, or
distribute in any other way.
Instead, please
give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the pattern,
so that they may come here for themselves and benefit from
everything else this site has to offer. Thank you.
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