Flower Medallion Yoke Instructions

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Below are instructions for joining the flower motifs and adding the yoke border. Instructions for crocheting the individual motifs (that are joined to make this yoke) are on this page: http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa051300.htm

Directions
Abbreviations: ch = chain,
dc = double crochet, dt = double treble,
dtr = double treble, sl st = slip stitch

Materials: Choose a thread weight that you are comfortable working with. Example is made with size 50 cotton thread and is a size large 36. When working with thicker thread weights, you will need less medallions across and fewer than shown to comprise the straps. This type of pattern is so easy to adjust for size as you just add or subtract number of medallions used to acheive the width you want.

Join number of medallions you will need across the yoke front (this will vary according to the weight of thread you are using). You can check as you go, for size, after each medallion that you join, to decide how many more you will need for desired width. In the example, when using size 50 thread, 7 medallions are joined for yoke front.

Join As You Go Method To connect medallions when working the fourth round, chain 3, sl st to first medallion loop, ch 3, sl st to center of chain-7, ch 3 to first medallion, next loop, ch 3 and start next cluster of 6 dt. You can see how this is done by referring to the photo of finished yoke above.

Using the same number of medallions across that you used for yoke front, make another strip for the yoke back.

At top of medallion on each end of front strip, join a medallion for beginning of strap. Join to this the number of medallions you have determined you will be using for strap. With size 50 thread, 4 medallions were used for each strap.

Join other end of each strap piece to top of end medallion at each side of back strip.

Inner Edging: Working in the spaces made by the loops between petals on each medallion, you will be working this edging in the 6 loops at top edge of each medallion.

Round 1: In front strip, join thread in first loop to be worked in the second medallion in from the edge on the right hand side of this front strip. Ch 4 (counts as first dt), 1 dt in first loop, * ch 6; 2 dt in 2nd loop, ch 6; 1 sl st in 3rd loop, ch 5; 1 sl st in 4th loop, ch 6; 2 dt in 5th loop, ch 6; 2 dt in 6th loop (no chains this time); 2 dt in first loop of next medallion. ** Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the corner. Corners In following above instructions, you will have already worked 2 dt in the first loop of the corner medallion. Next, chain 5, 2 dt in next loop of corner, (no chains in between this time) 2 dt in first loop of next medallion. ** Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the next corner, where you will again repeat the corner instructions. When you have crocheted all the way around the inner yoke edge, end with a slip stitch in first chain-4 of this round.

Round 2: You will now be working in the spaces made by 5 loops at the top edge of each medallion. Sl st in first 3 chains of ch-6 space (to be at the center of this space), ch 4 (counts as first dt), 1 dt in first loop, * ch 6; 2 dt in 2nd loop, ch 6; 1 sl st in 3rd loop, ch 6; 2 dt in 4th loop, ch 6; 2 dt in 5th loop, ch 6; 2 dt in first loop of next medallion **, Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the corner. Corners You will be working in only one loop of each corner medallion. When working the medallion before the corner, after working 2 dt in 5th loop, chain 6, then work 2 dt in loop of corner medallion, chain 6, 2 dt in first loop of next medallion. ** Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the next corner, where you will again repeat the corner instructions. When you have crocheted all the way around the inner yoke edge, end with a slip stitch in first chain-4 of this round.

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), * ch 2, dc in ch-6 space, ch 2, dc in same ch-6 space, skip next dt, dc in next dt, ch 2, (dc in next ch-6 space, ch 2) twice, skip next dt, dc in next dt, ch 2, dc in ch-6 space, ch 2, dc in same ch-6 space, skip next dt, dc in next dt, ch 2, dc in ch-6 space ** ; Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the corner. Corners (Ch 2, dc in next ch-6 space, ch 2, dc in same ch-6 space) twice. Repeat * to ** across top of each medallion until you reach the next corner, where you will again repeat the corner instructions. When you have crocheted all the way around the inner yoke edge, end with a slip stitch in first chain-3 of this round.

Round 4: Slip stitch in next ch-2 space, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same ch-2 space, 3 dc in each ch-2 space until you reach the corner. At corner, skip the chain 2 that is the corner mesh. (3 dc in each ch-2 space until you reach the next corner, where you will again skip the corner chain-2). Repeat around. End with slip stitch in beginning ch-3.

Round 5: This round is open mesh, crocheted as follows: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), (ch 2, skip next 2 dc, dc in next dc) repeat around. End with slip stitch in beginning chain-3.

Round 6: This round is open mesh, crocheted as follows: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), (ch 2, skip ch-2 space, dc in next dc) repeat around. End with slip stitch in beginning chain-3.

Round 7: On this round, you will be making cross treble stitches. Click here for illustration of a cross treble stitch in progress. This is how a Cross Treble is made: Thread over twice, insert hook in stitch and draw thread through as for a treble (4 loops on hook), thread over, and draw through two loops, thread over, skip two stitches, insert hook in next stitch, draw thread through (5 loops on hook), thread over and draw off 2 loops at a time 4 times, ch 2, 1 dc in the center point of the cross, thus completing the cross. * Work 1 cross treble over next mesh, ch 5, skip 2 meshes **, repeat * to ** around; end with slip stitch in beginning cross treble.

Round 8: In this round when it says to work a dc with 3 picots, this is how: after doing the double crochet, next, (chain 3, slip stitch in top of double crochet) 3 times.
* Sl st in cross treble, ch 3, in next ch-5 space work 1 dc with 3 picots, ch 3 **, repeat * to ** around; end with slip stitch in beginning slip stitch.

Weave satin ribbon through 7th round of inner edging, if desired.

Outer Edging: Working in the spaces made by the loops between petals on each medallion, you will be working this edging in the 6 loops at bottom edge of each medallion.

Outer edging rounds are worked the same as inner edging, except for the corner spaces.

Round 1: Work same as round 1 of inner edging but corners are worked as follows (worked over one loop only for each corner): (2 dt, ch 3, 2 dt) in the corner loop.

Rounds 2 & 3: Work same as rounds 2 and 3 of inner edging but corners are worked as follows: (3 dt, ch 3, 3 dt) in the corner loop.

Round 4: Work same as round 4 of inner edging but corners are worked as follows: (chain 4, skip the 3 dt, ch-3, 3 dt grouping of previous round) at the corner loop.

Round 5: Work same as round 5 of inner edging but corners are worked as follows: (3 dt, ch 3, 3 dt) in corner chain-4 space.

Round 6: Work same as round 6 of inner edging but corners are worked as follows: (3 dt, ch 3, 3 dt) in corner chain-3 space.

Round 7: Work same as 8th round of inner edging.

This Medallion Flower Yoke Pattern was printed in the 1920s in the pattern book Kloster Book of Yokes, Corners and Edges, Designs from the Handiwork of Anna Valeire and Emma Farnes. Both of these ladies were crochet designers in the early 1900s. No date of publication in the book; circa 1920. The black & white photo of finished yoke is from this same 1920s publication.

How long does copyright last? See US Government Copyright Office web site at http://www.loc.gov/copyright. Under "Publications" heading, click on "Information Circulars": Circular 15 (Renewal of Copyrights), Circular 15a (Duration of Copyrights) and Circular 15t (Extension of Copyright Terms)

Individual flower medallion photo by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc.

I added a great deal of instruction to the 1920 pattern directions. My HTML arrangement and added instructions for this pattern copyright 2000 Sandi Marshall. Do not copy onto any other website and do not distribute copies in any other way. Instead, please give the URL of this page to anyone who would like to have the pattern. Thank you.

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