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Venetian Crochet -
1915 Collar and Lace Edging

This Venetian pattern derives it's look of lace from a series of stitches in mesh, picot and simple chains. From this basic square, you can create straight lace edgings, insertions, collar and cuffs. This crochet style looks more complicated than it really is, so why not give it a try? If you find that you have questions, my Venetian Motif In-Progress Photos can help.

[Basic Venetian Square]
[Edging Pattern]
[Collar Pattern]


Venetian Square
from Handbook of Needlecraft, Number 2
Needlecraft Publishing Co., Published 1915

Note: I have rewritten these instructions in today's crochet terms.
--Sandi Marshall

Abbreviations used

sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
st(s) - stitch (stitches) sl st - slip stitch
ch - chain sp(s) - space (spaces)

picot = chain 3, slip stitch in same stitch just made

No size of thread given in original pattern. I made a sample with size 20 thread, using a size 10 steel crochet hook, which resulted in a square that's 2 inches; just to give you an idea of finished size. Use whatever size thread you desire.

Venetian Square - Chain 14.
Row 1: Dc in 6th ch from hook. (ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch) 4 times.
Rows 2 - 5: Ch 4, dc in first dc, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 3 times, ch 1, dc in 2nd stitch of turning ch.
At end of row 5, you should have a square of 5 spaces each way. Pattern now changes to being worked in rounds, working around all edges of the square.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, [(sc in dc, sc in ch-1 sp) 3 times, sc in dc, ch 9, turn, skip next sc, sl st in next sc, ch 1, 3 sc in ch-9 sp (ch 3, sl st in same sc just made for picot, 2 sc in same ch-9 sp) 4 times, ch 3, 3 sc in same ch-9 sp, (sc in ch-1 sp, sc in dc) twice], repeat [ to ] 3 more times. Note that you will have 2 sc in each corner stitch by following these instructions. At end of round, sl st in first sc to join.


Illustrating Rnd 6 instructions: ch 9, turn, skip next sc,

sl st in next sc

Rnd 7: * ch 7, sl st in 2nd picot of the first ch-9 loop; ch 8, sl st in 4th picot of same ch-9 loop; ch 7, sl st in next corner st *, repeat * to * 3 more times.
Rnd 8: ch 1 * (3 sc, picot, 2 sc, picot, 3 sc) in ch-7 sp; [(2 sc, picot) 3 times, 2 sc] in ch-8 sp; (3 sc, picot, 2 sc, picot, 3 sc) in ch-7 sp. * Repeat * to * 3 more times.
Fasten off.

This close-up of one side of the square shows what stitches look like after completing rnd 8.

As you are doing more squares, you can join-as-you-go when making squares to be used in the Edging or Collar patterns below. Refer to those patterns for where to join.

Making these squares into a straight lace edging:

Using pattern above, make number of basic squares needed for length of edging desired.

Join the squares in the middle picot of 8-chain loop (corner loop), either by working a slip stitch in this picot as you are doing round 8 of the next square (join-as-you-go method) or by sewing together with needle and thread.

mesh space = (chain 1, dc in next dc)

When all the squares have been joined, fill in between them with mesh, like this:
To start, fasten the thread in the first picot of the ch-7 at the right, counting up from where the first and second squares are joined; chain 3, dc in picot of ch-8, with both sides of the joining worked together. Chain 3, sl st in first picot of ch-7 in 2nd square, sl st in next picot of same ch-7, turn; ch 1, dc in center of ch-3, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, dc in center of ch-3, ch 1, sl st in next picot of ch-7 in first square, sl st in next square above, turn.
Proceed as before, making 6 mesh spaces instead of 4. Work back with 8 mesh spaces, and again with 10.
Fill in between each two squares in this manner. When doing the outside square at each end of the edging, you will turn with a chain 4 at the outside edge, instead of catching in picots, as when filling between two squares.

To make as a straight lace edging, fill in between the squares, in the manner above, on one side only.

To make as an insertion, fill in between the squares on both sides.

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Making these squares into a collar:

Note: No finished size given in original pattern. Make it bigger or smaller by adjusting the thread and hook size used or by adding additional squares to the pattern, as needed.

Using basic square pattern above, make 7 squares.

Join the squares in the middle picot of 8-chain loop (corner loop), either by working a slip stitch in this picot as you are doing round 8 of the next square (join-as-you-go method) or by sewing together with needle and thread.

When all the squares have been joined, fill in between them with mesh, like this:
To start, fasten the thread in the first picot of the ch-7 at the right, counting up from where the first and second squares are joined; chain 3, dc in picot of ch-8, with both sides of the joining worked together. Chain 3, sl st in first picot of ch-7 in 2nd square, sl st in next picot of same ch-7, turn; ch 1, dc in center of ch-3, ch 1, dc in dc, ch 1, dc in center of ch-3, ch 1, sl st in next picot of ch-7 in first square, sl st in next square above, turn.
Proceed as before, making 6 mesh spaces instead of 4. Work back with 8 mesh spaces, and again with 10.
Fill in between each two squares in this manner. When doing the outside square, you will turn with a chain 4 at the outside edge, instead of catching in picots, as when filling between two squares.
Next, make 3 rows of mesh across the top.

  • 1915 instructions say: "If you find the collar will be too full, which is not likely, or you desire it of more circular form, you have simply to draw the upper points nearer together by making 1 less space in each row between; that is, in the second row make 3 spaces, in the third row make 5 spaces, and so on." Where it says make 3 spaces, this means to work 3 mesh spaces by (chain 1, dc in next dc) 3 times.

Across the upper edge work as follows:
1. Join thread at top edge. * Chain 6, skip ch-1, skip next dc, skip ch-1; sl st in next dc * , repeat * to * across.
2. (4 sc, picot, 4 sc) in each ch-6 across, end with sl st in edge.

  • 1915 instructions say "Cuffs to match are made in the same way, save that in finishing them you leave them straight, putting in more spaces between the motifs to avoid a curve.

    The collar, omitting the upper edge, makes a very handsome border for round centerpiece.

    The motif will be found an extremely useful and pretty one for many purposes."

My rewritten instructions for these Venetian Crochet Patterns not to be redistributed ("shared"), with or without charge. Free for your own personal use only. If someone else wants the instructions, please give them the URL to this web page, so that they can come here and explore everything this site has to offer, for themselves. I appreciate it. Thank you. URL of this page is http://crochet.about.com/library/weekly/aa061999.htm

Sandi Marshall
Your Crochet Guide

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Collar photo is from 1915 Handbook of Needlecraft
Copyright: All other pattern photos by Sandi Marshall, copyright 1999 by Sandi Marshall, licensed to About.com, Inc. Per copyright law, do not put on your own web site or otherwise redistribute these photos in any form (even for free).

How long does copyright last? See US Government Copyright Law Office web site at www.copyright.gov ... Under "Publications" heading, click on "Information Circulars": Circular 15 (Renewal of Copyrights), Circular 15a (Duration of Copyrights) and Circular 15t (Extension of Copyright Terms) can be helpful.

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