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Scalloped Edging -- Wide Pointed Version

A Free Crochet Pattern

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Project Description

Pointed Scalloped Edging
Pointed Scalloped Edging -- Photo © Amy Solovay

There are many different ways to crochet a scalloped edging, but there are several reasons this pattern stands out from all the others of its kind:

  • It has an interesting pointed shape, which I find extremely satisfying to crochet. It reminds me of a couple different things at the same time: flower petals, and eastern architecture (for example, the Taj Mahal.) In my imagination – and hopefully, yours, too – this inspires many different ways to use it. I’m thinking tile-inspired blanket patterns…floral designs…oh, the possibilities!


  • It’s a reasonably quick design, being only one row / one round.


  • It’s suitable for use on most types of projects. It can go across a straight edge, or around a corner, whichever works best for your project.


  • It’s easy!

Materials You Will Need:

Yarn or Crochet Thread: Use yarn or thread in the same size and weight as the main part of your project. For this edging design, I recommend using a color that contrasts yet coordinates with the main body of the project, so I’ve written the instructions with the assumption that you’ll be changing colors. “Color A / Main Color” refers to the color used for the main part of the project. “Color B/ Edging Color” refers to the color you’ll be using to crochet the edging.

Crochet Hook: Use the same exact crochet hook you used to crochet the main part of the project. The exception to this would be in case you decide to ignore the advice given above, to use yarn or thread in the same size and weight as the main part of the project. In that case, you may need to change hooks to make the disparity between yarns a little less problematic.

Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:

Stitch Multiple

This edging repeats across 6 stitches (It’s a multiple of 6.) If you are starting a brand new project, when you calculate your starting chain, you do need to make sure to add add an appropriate number of chains that you would need for starting the project off. The correct number depends on the stitch you'll be using.

If you are thinking of using this edging on a finished project you already have on hand, it's really easy to figure out if you can use this edging to finish it off. Just count the number of stitches you have along each side of the project that needs edging, and divide by 6. If the result is a whole number in each case, you can use it.

If the result is a fraction along any one of the sides, you can still use the edging, but you’ll have to do a bit of tweaking first.

One possible tweak you could try: On projects with corners, add an additional round around the outside of the project. On each side that is not already divisible by 6, you’ll want to increase or decrease by the amount of stitches necessary to achieve a stitch count that is divisible by 6.

For projects worked in rows, you can try adding an additional row across the edge you want to finish, increasing or decreasing by the amount of stitches needed to achieve the correct stitch count.

This tends to work better if you don’t need to do much increasing or decreasing to make the math work out. If you’re working a small project, like fingerless gloves or a hat, lots of increasing /decreasing is going to create more of an issue than it is if you’re working a large project, like a blanket.

If you’d need to do a lot of tweaking on the stitch count, particularly on a small project, you might be happier using a different edging. There’s another version of this pattern which looks similar, but it is a multiple of 4 stitches instead of 6. It is also available as a free pattern on our website, so please be sure to grab that pattern for your pattern stash as well. It could be interesting to try using both patterns together in the same project, as they coordinate well with each other visually. I'm thinking you'd want to try using some multiple of 24 stitches to make the math work out right, although I haven't tried it yet to see how it would work out.

Design Note:

When I crocheted my sample project, I worked all my stitches through blo (back loop only.) This is because it was the most convenient way for me to do this particular piece, considering the openwork stitch pattern I was edging. However, when you work this pattern, in some cases it will probably make more sense for you to work though both loops, unless you are also working on edging a lacy piece of crochet. You can work this edging either way, just be sure to be consistent after you've made your choice.

Edging Instructions:

Make sure you’ve ended off Color A / the main color of the body of your project, and woven in the ends securely – or if you haven’t, you could crochet overtop of them when you work your edging if you wish. If you haven’t already secured your ends, I’d recommend doing both. You can weave the edging into the portion of the project that you are about to crochet into when you work the edging. Then crochet overtop of the tail as you work the edging.

Using Color B / your edging color, make a slip knot of yarn on your crochet hook, then work a sl st in the first st in the row or round. [ch 2, dc in next st, tr in next st, ch 3, sl st in third ch from hook, tr in next st, dc in next st, ch 2, sl st in next st, sl st in next st.] Rep the instructions in brackets all the way across the side you are working on.

If you only want to work across one side, end off when you’ve completed it.

If you are working a project with multiple sides, you’ll need to stop and turn a corner eventually. When you get to a corner, there are a couple of ways you could approach it.

After your last sl st in the previous side, you could just sl st in the next st and then continue to rep the sequence given in brackets above.

If that produces a corner that seems a little too tight and not flexible enough, you could add a ch st, or a few ch sts, in between the last sl st on the last side, and the first sl st on the next side, to get yourself around the corner more comfortably.

Whichever way you decide to go, be consistent in it and rep the same thing when you work all the rest of the corners in the project.

Finishing:

Weave in any remaining loose ends. Block the project if desired.

Enjoy!



Learn the V Stitch in Brick Repeat

Learn the V Stitch in Brick Repeat
Learn the V Stitch in Brick Repeat. Photo © Amy Solovay.

In my sample project, the main part of the piece is crocheted in this stitch, called "v-stitch in brick repeat". As I discovered, it's tricky to make the math work out exactly correct when applying this version of the edging to the stitch. I'm convinced it could be made to work out given the right project and enough time and brainpower invested, but I'm warning you that it may not be an easy thing to do.

Whether or not you're inclined to try to use the two designs together, it's nice to have both of them in your pattern stash. If you'd like to learn how to crochet this stitch, the free instructions for it are available on our website.

Get More Free Patterns for Scalloped Edgings

Scalloped Puff Stitch Edging
Scalloped Puff Stitch Edging -- Photo © Amy Solovay

This scalloped puff stitch edging (pictured) is a delightful way to finish projects with corners.

Not pictured: This half double crochet shell edging is really quick and easy to crochet.

Discover Even More Free Patterns for Crochet Trims and Edgings

Filet Crochet Heart Trim
Filet Crochet Heart Trim -- Photo and Chart © Amy Solovay

Our free edging patterns span a wide variety of different styles and crochet techniques. For example, the edging pictured here was designed using the filet crochet technique. You'll find this chart and edging pattern available on our website, along with many other different edging patterns you could use. You're invited to load up on as many of them as you like.

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