Similar Free Crochet Patterns: Simple Crochet Ear Warmer Pattern | Easy Beginner's Crochet Headband Pattern | Free Crochet Headband Patterns | Free Crochet Ear Warmer Patterns | Free Crochet Patterns for Accessories | Free Crochet Patterns for Beginners
Project Photos: Click here to see large pictures of this headband.
Skill Level: Beginner
This pattern is easy enough for beginners, but I recommend this pattern to crocheters of all skill levels who want a quick and easy project to work on.
- Worsted Weight Yarn: I crocheted two samples of this headband (and I'm sure I'll be making more of them!) One of my sample headbands was crocheted using Paton's classic wool yarn; the other was crocheted using Red Heart Super Saver, an acrylic yarn. I prefer the wool version, but both headbands turned out fine. The wool version is pictured on this page.
- Crochet Hook: I crocheted both of my sample headbands using a size J crochet hook.
- Tapestry Needle: You'll crochet the headband in one long piece and then stitch the top to the bottom to form a shallow tube. The tapestry needle is used to do the sewing, plus it is also used for weaving in any remaining loose pieces of yarn.
- Safety Pins: You'll need a stitch marker or safety pin for temporarily marking a stitch as you crochet. Also, if you want to try the headband on the intended wearer before you complete the finishing process, safety pins will help.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
- ch = chain
- ch-1 sp = chain-1 space, the space formed when you crocheted a chain stitch in the previous row
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- st = stitch
Gauge / Finished Size:
Measure your head, or the head of the intended wearer; this will be the measurement around the head in the spot where you anticipate the headband will be placed on the head. When I measured this area on my own head, I came up with an approximate measurement of 22 inches.
This headband is designed to be stretchy in the vertical direction. I designed it to have negative ease, meaning it's intended to be slightly smaller than the actual head measurement.
If the intended wearer's head measurement differs significantly from mine, you may want to adjust the headband size accordingly. I made my headbands about 4 inches smaller than my actual head measurement, but you can feel free to adjust this to your own comfort level. Adjustments to this pattern are easy; if you want a tighter fit, work a shorter piece; if you want a looser fit, work a longer piece by crocheting more rows.Paton's Classic Wool Version of the Headband: The headband measures 2 inches wide by 18 inches tall (before sewing the seam to finish.) Finished size is 9 inches when laid flat.
Acrylic / Red Heart Super Saver Version of the Headband: The headband measures 2 1/4 inches wide by 18 inches tall (before sewing the seam to finish.) Finished size is 9 inches when laid flat.
To check your gauge, crochet the first few rows of the pattern and then measure the width of the headband. If it is too wide, you might want to consider starting over with a smaller hook; if it's too narrow, you could use a larger hook. That's up to you. If the headband looks like it'll be wearable in the width you have made it, there's no need to start over. The most important dimension is the length, and you will determine that by how many rows you crochet.
In the pattern directions you'll be instructed to crochet into the ch-1 spaces. If you have a hard time finding these -- sometimes they seem to disappear -- try carefully poking your finger at the row of stitches from back to front. I've found that it's sometimes easier to locate the spaces by touch than it is by sight.
You will end up with a total of 4 sc sts in each row.
Headband Crochet Instructions:
Row 1: Place a stitch marker or safety pin in the first ch from your hook. sc in 3rd ch from hook. [ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch.] Rep across entire row. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: [sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the rest of the row. At the end of the row, work a sc st into the st where you placed the marker; you can remove the marker before working the stitch. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 3 and Up: The rest of the rows are all exactly the same as row 2, with one minor difference: at the end of the row you'll work your last sc st into the turning chain of the previous row. Rep this row until the headband is the length you want it to be. I worked 63 rows total on the Paton's Classic wool version, and 59 rows total on the Red Heart Super Saver version; depending on how tall your stitches turn out, you might need to crochet a different number of rows.
If you would like to check the fit before you sew the sides of the headband, put a safety pin in your active loop and pin the sides of the headband together. Try it on the intended wearer. If it is too big, you can unravel a bit; if it is too small, crochet another row or few rows until it is the size you want.
Finishing the Headband
When you are satisfied that the headband is the correct size, cut the yarn leaving an extra long length of yarn (around ten inches long or so.) Thread your tapestry needle using this end of yarn; with right sides together, use the tapestry needle to stitch the ends of the headband together. Weave in your ends. Turn the headband right side out. The headband is now ready to wear and enjoy, or to give as a gift.
This headband is part of a set of coordinating crocheted accessories. Check out pictures of the other projects in the set: