If you would like to crochet a cold-weather hat for a special guy, this men's winter hat pattern may be just what you need. The hat is a classic style. The stitch used resembles a rib knit, but it's not knitted; it's crocheted.
This hat is part of a coordinating set which also includes a winter scarf.
Crochet Skill Level: Very easy.
This project is suitable for crocheters who have learned the following stitches:
Hand Sewing Skill Level: Average. If you've ever sewn a garment or similar project, you'll have no problem with the finishing here.
This hat is constructed in two pieces: a large crocheted rectangle and a small crocheted circle.
The body of the hat is made from the rectangle, which you will use to create a tube shape. Then you gather the top of the tube, using the same type of stitch that you would use for basting – only you want the sewing here to be permanent.
Then you sew the circle to the top to secure the gathers. This process has similarities to the technique of setting in a sleeve, but is much easier.
You'll need about 4 oz. of DK / light worsted weight wool yarn -- choose a yarn rated as 3 on the Craft Yarn Council's weight standard system. My sample hat is crocheted with a two-ply yarn similar to Ashford's Tekapo yarn. (Manufacturer's site.) You can substitute any similar yarn.For best results, I recommend using wool for this project. This stitch tends to bias; if you use wool yarn, you'll be able to block it into shape easily.
For Crocheting the Hat: Use a size K / 6.5 mm hook; adjust if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
For Crocheting the Circle: Use a size H / 5.0 mm hook, or the hook you are most comfortable with using for this weight of yarn.
Other: Tapestry needle
Gauge: 4 sts = 1 inch; row gauge is not important.
Please be sure to make a gauge swatch prior to crocheting this hat.
If you want your hat to be exactly the same size as mine is, match my gauge as closely as possible.
If you don't want to hassle with matching my gauge, or if you need a hat in a different size, the alternative is to work out the math to ensure a correct fit. The math for this particular design is very easy, so please don't be afraid to make size adjustments. Either way, you will need your gauge swatch to do this correctly.
This pattern is sized for adult men. The model shown in the photo has a head measurement of 22" in circumference.
My sample hat measures 11" long and 22" in circumference acround the lower edge; it measures 11" across when laid flat.
- If you'd like to make your hat longer than the sample, increase the number of chain stitches in your starting chain.
- To make your hat shorter, decrease the number of chains in your starting chain.
- If you'd like your hat to fit looser, crochet more rows.
- To make it fit tighter, crochet fewer rows.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
Row 1: Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch st across the row. (44 sl sts.)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work entire row in sl st. (44 sl sts.)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Work entire row in sl st. (44 sl sts.)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Work entire row in sc. (44 sc sts.)
Rows 5 and Up: The pattern repeats from here on - 3 rows of sl st followed by 1 row of sc st - with the following minor change: row 5 will be a sl st row; work your sl sts into the front loops of the sc sts in the previous row.
Continue working in pattern repeat until your hat is the desired size.
My sample hat is 100 rows total, but you should crochet as many rows as necessary to achieve a comfortable fit for the intended wearer. You can do a quick fitting by using safety pins to temporarily pin up the sides of the hat and try it on.
End off; weave in ends. Block and let dry.
Crochet the Seam:
Hold (or pin) the first and last row together in order to form a tube. Work one slip stitch through both loops of both the stitches in the first row and last row.
Gathering the Top of the Hat:
Thread your yarn needle and hand stitch a straight basting-type stitch loosely all the way around the upper perimeter of the hat. Make your stitches as even as possible, and keep them as close to the edge as you comfortably can.
Your next goal is to transform the tube into a hat shape that's open at the bottom and closed at the top. To do so, you're going to use your basting stitch as the mechanism for gathering the top of the tube.
After the top has been gathered, make a few extra stitches as needed to secure the gathers and then set the piece aside while you crochet the circle.
Ch 5, sl st to form a ring
Round 1: 10 sc in ring; sl st to join to the first sc in the round.
Round 2: ch 1. Working through both loops, work 2 sc in each sc. (20 sc.) sl st to join.
Round 3: ch 1, 1 sc in each sc (20 sc.) sl st to join.
I stopped there; the circle for my hat is made up of these 3 rounds. It measures about 2 1/4", and it is big enough to successfully cover the gathers at the top of my hat.
I worked out a couple of extra rounds for the circle, just in case you need them. Reasons why you might need them:
- If your circle turned out smaller than mine
- If your circle doesn't cover the gathers at the top of your hat completely when you try to stitch it onto the top of the hat
Don't use the extra rounds unless you need them, and do your best not to need them by gathering the top of the body of the hat as tight as you can.
Optional Round 4: ch 1, (1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat sequence in parentheses all the way around (30 sc total)
Optional Round 5: ch 1, work 1 sc in each sc all the way around (30 sc total)
When you end off, leave a long tail of yarn that you can use to stitch the circle to the top of the hat.
Your next task: stitching the circle to the hat so that it hides the basting stitch and all the gathers. You want this to be permanent, so stitch around the circle several times until you are confident that it won't work its way loose. When you are finished, turn the hat inside out and weave in any remaining loose ends.