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Free Crochet Pattern for Colorful Potholders

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Colorful Potholders Crocheted Using Knitpicks Simply Cotton Yarn

New Updated Version of the Colorful Potholders Crocheted Using Knitpicks Simply Cotton Yarn

Photo © 2012 Amy Solovay.

Related Resources: Afghan Stitch Instructions | Free Tunisian Crochet Patterns | Free Potholder Patterns | Free Patterns for Trivets and Hot Pads | Free Kitchen Patterns | Rainbow Patterns

Project Overview:

Brighten up your kitchen with these colorful crochet potholders. The potholders are worked in afghan stitch (AKA Tunisian simple stitch) in stripes of red, blue and yellow. When the potholders are viewed from a distance, you also get the illusion of several other colors, and a rainbow effect is created.

More Project Photos:

I've created an image gallery with several large close-up photos of this potholder.

Pattern Updates: This pattern was updated on April 1, 2012, to include updated yarn information. If your copy is older than that, you may wish to print the update.

Materials:

Yarn:

For each potholder, you’ll need a total of approximately 3 oz. of worsted weight cotton yarn. When I originally published this pattern, my project sample was worked in Peaches & Creme cotton yarn in the following colors:

  • Red
  • Yellow
  • Light blue
. To the best of my knowledge, Peaches & Creme is now under new ownership, and the older colors are no longer available. I've found a new yarn that I think is a fantastic substitute -- in my opinion, it's even better than the yarn I chose originally. I now recommend Knitpicks Simply Cotton yarn in the following colors:

  • Carnelian Heather
  • Golden Heather
  • Bermuda Heather
Feel free to substitute any similar cotton yarn if you prefer.

Crochet Hooks:

For the Body of the Potholder: You’ll need a size J / 10 /6.0 mm afghan crochet hook measuring 10+ inches long, or your preferred size.

For the Edging: An ordinary J hook is a good starting point, but you may need to adjust up or down if you notice a significant difference in tension between the body of the potholder and the edging. I used a size H hook to crochet the edging for the sample potholder.

Other Materials: Tapestry needle and safety pins

Abbreviations

Finished Size:

Each potholder measures approximately 8 1/2 inches square before washing. This measurement includes the edging. These potholders are likely to to shrink a bit the first time you wash them.

Gauge:

11 stitches = 3 inches. The row gauge isn’t critical for this project.

Design Notes:

  • Afghan stitch has a tendency to curl up, so do not be alarmed if your work curls. The potholder will lie flat once you join the two pieces of it together.


  • Striped patterns such as this one can generate lots of loose ends. If you'd rather not deal with excessive amounts of loose ends, don't bother cutting the yarns when you work the two-color rows; just drop the yarns when you are finished with them, and pick them up again when you need them next. The technique is explained a bit better in this tutorial. The tutorial demonstrates the technique used with a different stitch, but you can use it with afghan stitch too.

Potholder Instructions:

Front of Potholder:

Ch 28.

Work in afghan stitch until directed otherwise.

Rows 1-4: Work in red yarn.

Row 5: Work the forward pass in red, and the return pass in yellow.

Row 6: Work the forward pass in yellow, and the return pass in red.

Row 7: Work the forward pass in red yarn, and the return pass in yellow.

Row 8: Work the forward pass in yellow, and the return pass in red.

Rows 9-12: Work in yellow yarn.

Row 13: Work the forward pass in yellow, and the return pass in blue.

Row 14: Work the forward pass in blue, and the return pass in yellow.

Row 15: Work the forward pass in yellow, and the return pass in blue.

Row 16: Work the forward pass in blue, and the return pass in yellow.

Rows 17-20: Work in blue yarn.

Row 21: Work the forward pass in blue, and the return pass in red.

Row 22: Work the forward pass in red, and the return pass in blue.

Row 23: Work the forward pass in blue, and the return pass in red.

Row 24: Work the forward pass in red, and the return pass in blue.

Rows 25-28: Work in red yarn.

Row 29: Work one slip stitch in each vertical bar all the way across the row. Work one last slip stitch into the end of the row, in the same spot you’d ordinarily work the last afghan stitch in the row. (27 slip stitches worked.)

Weave in all the loose ends before crocheting the edging.

Edging Instructions for the Front of the Potholder::

Round 1: Attach blue yarn and Ch 2. Sc in each stitch, all the way around. When you get to the corners: (sc, ch 2, sc) and then continue working sc. At the end of the round, join with a sl st.

Decorative Slip Stitch Detail:

Using yellow yarn, crochet a round of decorative slip stitches on the face of the potholder. If you are not familiar with this technique, my surface crochet tutorial will show you how to do this. Your guideline for placing these stitches will be the spot where the single crochet touches the afghan stitch.

After you've worked slip stitches the whole way around the potholder, end off and weave in the loose ends. Set aside and work the back of the potholder.

Back of Potholder:

Working in red yarn, ch 28. Work 28 rows of afghan stitch.

Row 29: Work one slip stitch in each vertical bar all the way across the row. Work one last slip stitch into the end of the row, in the same spot you’d ordinarily work the last afghan stitch in the row. (27 slip stitches worked.) Do not end off yet.

Edging for Back Piece of Potholder: The edging is worked in the round.

Ch 2. Sc in each stitch, all the way around. When you get to the corners: (sc, ch 2, sc) and then continue working sc. At the end of the round, join with a sl st. Weave in all loose ends.

Finishing the Potholder:

Edging Round 2: This round is used to hold the two pieces of the potholder together. Place the wrong sides of the potholders together. Be sure that you hold both the top edges together, as there is one stitch less on the top than the bottom. You can safety-pin the corners of the squares to help you hold them together as you join them.

Using red yarn, draw up a loop and ch 2. Working through the front and back loops of both squares, sc in each stitch, all the way around. When you get to the corners: (sc, ch 2, sc) and then continue working sc. When you get to the last corner of the round, ch 12 to make the hanging loop for the potholder. Then join the hanging loop to the body of the potholder with a slip stitch.

Edging Round 3: Work 1 slip stitch in each sc all the way around. When you get to the corners, work a slip stitch into the ch-2 corner space. When you’ve worked slip stitches all the way around the potholder, end off, leaving a tail of yarn at least 6 inches long.

Weave in the end carefully using a tapestry needle. Your work will be visible, so be as neat as you can.

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