As a child, I was delighted and intrigued by the Biblical account of Joseph's coat of many colors. Although I've spent many hours pondering what a coat of many colors might look like, I haven't actually tried to make one yet. I might crochet one someday, but in the meanwhile I keep getting sidetracked with making smaller accessories inspired by the same idea.
This colorful scarf is one example.
If you aren't familiar with that story, you can find it in the book of Genesis, chapter 37.
Project Photos and Free Crochet Charts: I've published larger scarf photos plus a couple of free charts you can use for crocheting the color repeats:
- Scarf laid flat
- Close-up photo of the crochet stitches
- Free chart for right-handed crocheters
- Free chart for left-handed crocheters
- Photo gallery main page -- see thumbnails of all the images in the gallery
Skill Level: Intermediate
Yarn: I used worsted weight yarn to crochet my project sample. You'll need 8 different yarn colors, as follows:
- Color A -- Tan (Main Color)
- Color B -- Blue
- Color C -- Green
- Color D -- Yellow
- Color E -- Orange
- Color F -- Medium Pink
- Color G -- Dark Pink
- Color H -- Red
Color A, the tan yarn, is the color you'll need the most of. You can use scrap yarn for the other colors.
I used wool yarns for all the colors in my project sample. Colors B, C, D, E, F, G, and H are all Cascade 220 colors; color A in my sample scarf is a yarn I bought from a sheep farmer who had the wool from her sheep made into yarn.
Size I crochet hook, or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
13 sts = about 4 inches when working single crochet stitches in the tapestry crochet colorwork pattern. Row gauge is not important for this pattern.
This scarf measures 4 inches by 43 inches. If you'd like to make your scarf longer, feel free to add stitches in multiples of 8. If I make any more of these scarves, I plan to add at least 8 stitches to each so the scarves turn out a little bit longer.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:
- beg = beginning
- ch = chain
- ea = each
- MC = main color
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch
Design Notes: The brackets, , denote a set of instructions within the pattern that needs to be repeated.
If you are not yet familiar with the tapestry crochet technique, you can learn how to do it using my free tapestry crochet tutorial. For this pattern, you'll be working in single crochet stitch and crocheting overtop of your inactive color as you go.
Color A will be either carried or active throughout the entire design; do not cut color A until the last row has been finished.
There are two colors in every row of this pattern. Color A is used throughout, and the other color will be different in every row. The second color will alternate with color A every 4 sts.
To accomplish this, you'll be joining a new color at the beginning of every row. When you begin, leave at least a 6 inch length of yarn to create the fringe. At the end of every row, cut the color, leaving a 6 inch length at the end.
Using color A (MC), ch 141.
Row 1: Begin carrying color B from the beg of the row. Using color A, sc in 2nd ch from hook. sc in next 3 chs; change to color B before completing the 4th st. [Work 4 sc sts in color B, work 4 sc sts in color A.] Rep sequence in brackets across the entire row. At the end of the row, change colors to color C before completing the last step of the last st.
Row 2: [Work 4 sts using color C, then work 4 sts using color A.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color C.
Row 3: [Work 4 sts using color A, then work 4 sts using color D.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color A.
Row 4: [Work 4 sts using color E, then work 4 sts using color A.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color E.
Row 5: [Work 4 sts using color A, then work 4 sts using color F.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color A.
Row 6: [Work 4 sts using color G, then work 4 sts using color A.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color G.
Row 7: Work 4 sts using color A, then work 4 sts using color H.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color A.
Row 8: [Work 4 sts using color H, then work 4 sts using color A.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. End the row by working another 4 sts in color H.
This row is the center of the scarf. The upper half of the scarf is a mirror image of the lower half, as follows:
Row 9: Repeat row 7.
Row 10: Repeat row 6.
Row 11: Repeat row 5.
Row 12: Repeat row 4.
Row 13: Repeat row 3.
Row 14: Repeat row 2.
Row 15: Repeat row 1.
Cut both colors and end off leaving a 6 inch length for the fringe..
Row 16: Flip work over to the other side. Leaving a 6 inch length of yarn unworked at the beginning, re-attach color A by pulling up a loop. Work 1 sl st in ea st, all the way across the row. End off, leaving a 6 inch length of yarn at the end for fringe.
Finishing the Scarf:
You will not need to weave in your loose ends (except for any you might have in the middle of the scarf.) The loose ends dangling from either sides of the scarf can be used as fringe.
I added a bit more fringe to my sample scarf using the technique Edna Kurtzman demonstrates in her crochet fringe video. It's really easy to do.
After adding the fringe, I tied each grouping of fringe in a tight knot for a bit of additional security. I also think it looks nicer and neater that way.
If the lower edge of your scarf ends up looking messy or uneven, you may wish to add groupings of crochet flowers to this area to camouflage the imperfections. Even if there are no imperfections, that could still be a fun and creative way to make the scarf look extra special.