This crocheted scarf looks textured and even a bit lacy, especially when blocked -- but it isn't comprised of lace stitches at all. In fact, the only stitch you'll need to know is the simple single crochet stitch.
Crochet Skill Level: Easy. In theory, this should be a beginner-level pattern; it's all basic stitches and the entire design is worked in rows. However, there's one little twist that keeps things interesting, and perhaps a bit more challenging, than a typical beginner project. You'll be using two different thicknesses of yarn to crochet this design.
The two yarn weights create an interesting visual contrast, but they also might pose a challenge for crocheters who have not yet mastered the skill of crocheting at an even tension. For that reason, I wouldn't necessarily recommend this as a first crochet project (although I do believe a determined crochet beginner with some knitting or crafting experience could successfully work this pattern.) If you're a total beginner, I recommend starting with the granny square or the basic crochet scarf.
If you're able to consistently maintain an even tension when you crochet, I invite you to give this pattern a try. I love my finished scarf, and I hope you'll be equally thrilled with yours too.
Yarn: For my sample scarf, I used two different weights of Knitpicks "Swish" yarn in the "Holly Berry" color. My sample scarf required one entire 137 yard / 100 gram hank of the bulky yarn, and one entire 123 yard / 50 gram ball of the dk weight yarn.
Swish is a delightfully soft merino wool; it's machine-washable and can be tumble dried too.
Size P crochet hook, or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
Finished Scarf Size:My sample scarf measures approximately 60 inches wide by 5.25 inches high.
5 sts = about 3 inches.
Because this scarf design requires you to use your balls of yarn up almost completely, it's important that you're not crocheting at a looser tension than I was when I made the sample -- unless you purchase extra yarn. If you buy 2 skeins of the bulky and 2 skeins of the dk, you'll have plenty, and matching my gauge exactly won't be such a concern. Otherwise, it's no big deal if your scarf turns out a bit longer or shorter than my sample.
Design Notes: Throughout this pattern, when you crochet with the bulky weight yarn, use two strands of it held together. When you use the dk yarn, use one strand alone, without doubling it.
To prepare the bulky yarn, when you wind it into balls, wind two balls of equal weight. I did this by winding the entire hank into one ball, then using the free end to begin winding a second ball made from the first ball. When the balls look roughly equal, you can use a scale to weigh each and make sure they weigh the same amount. There may be an easier way than that to do it, so if you can think of a better method, by all means do it that way instead.
Between rows, work 1 ch st for the turning chain.
This scarf is only one color. However, you do switch yarns to achieve this design, and the process is the same as it is for working color changes. If you don't already know how to do this, you may wish to check out my tutorial for how to change colors in crochet.
How to Crochet the Scarf:
Using the bulky yarn, ch 101.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch st across. Before completing the last st in the row, change yarns so that you are using the dk weight yarn for working the next row. Row 1, and each row afterwards, will have a total of 100 sc sts.
Rows 2 - 4: Using a loose, easy tension, sc in ea sc st across these 3 rows with the dk weight yarn. At the end of this series of 3 rows, switch back to using the bulky weight yarn.
Row 5: sc in ea st across the row with the bulky weight yarn. At the end of the row, switch back to the dk weight yarn.
Rows 6 - 8: Rep rows 2 - 4.
Row 9: sc across entire row using bulky yarn. At the end of the row, cut yarn and end off.
Flip your work over so that you can work back across the free loops in your starting chain. Attach the dk weight yarn in the corner at the beg of the row. If you are right-handed, this will be the right-hand upper corner when the starting chain is facing up. If you're left-handed, this will be the left-hand upper corner when the starting chain is facing up.
Rows 10 - 12: Rep rows 2 - 4.
Row 13: Rep row 9.
Finishing the Scarf:
Weave in all loose ends. Block the scarf if desired. Blocking will "open up" the stitches; it will enhance the contrast between the thick and thin yarns and add to the lacy effect that is evident when you look at the stitches crocheted using the dk weight yarn. I do recommend blocking the scarf if you have the time, space and inclination to do so. However, please note that the sample scarf pictured has not been blocked; a blocked scarf will look a bit different than the sample shown.